In Search of Island Artisans

I’ve heard it said that one of the secrets of a happy life is continuous small treats. If this is the case, then let me lead you to where you are bound to find a plethora of “continuous small treats.” It’s in Prince Edward Island, Canada’s “smallest and greenest place.”

I love PEI and have journeyed there with my husband every summer for the past 30 years. So I’ve grown quite intimate with much of what she has to offer, yet it wasn’t until last summer that I ventured “up East” and “up West.” Knowing that Canada would be celebrating the “Year of the Craft” in 2007—and knowing that PEI has more artisans per population than anywhere else in Canada—I decided to pay particular attention to this en route.

We started our journey at the Alpaca Bay Farm in Pownwal, where owner Heather Jones gave us a tour of her farm. With 48 Alpacas and four on the way, she had her hands full. Alpacas are the most endearing animals and communicate by making rather large “mewing” noises. Part of Heather’s operation is a small gift shop loaded with Alpaca items including shawls, scarves, duvets and mitts. Fleece is prized and fetches a pretty penny as each animal produces only four pounds a year and it takes a full month during shearing season to get the flock to part with its fur.

Further along the South Eastern shore we arrived at Belfast Mini-Mills and were mesmerized. Want your pet dog or cat hair made into yarn? No problem. Just send it along to these folks. They’ve cleaned, carded, dyed and spun just about every fibre under the sun including the hair from pot bellied pigs, yaks, qiviut, angora goats and camel. Along with handling custom fibre orders world over, they also build and export special Mini-Mills. Their machines are set up in various parts of the world including Australia, Bolivia, England and New Zealand.

Aside from enjoying talking with the personable staff, we got a chuckle out of the various kinds of animals that roam around the property including ducks, chickens, geese, pigs, llamas and a rather foolish cow that stands for hours on top of a large pile of manure.

The Rossignol Estate Winery at Little Sands was a quiet, cool interlude. As it wasn’t a production day, the premises were rather quiet. We found John Rossignol who was happy to chat about his beloved wines. It’s the Island’s first and only commercial winery and there are many unique things about this establishment including the fact that all the labels are replicated from original Island artwork. Also of interest: visitors can request taste samplers for a toonie and the proceeds are donated to the Queen Elizabeth Hospital in Charlottetown. One of Rossignol’s favourite inventions is a maple liqueur, sold in a bottle that’s the shape of a fiddle.

Another spot that took our fancy is called Spit’n Image in Murray River. Sheila Woerdmann is the seamstress/knitter. Her garments are made from imported alpaca fibre. The fleece is luxurious, versatile, soft as silk, and has dramatic draping qualities that lends itself to making fine garments. The yarn she uses is superfine, 100 per cent certified organic, and is both dye and chemical free. We also learned that alpaca fleece has no lanolin so it’s a great choice for people who have allergies or who find it difficult to wear wool.

Further up the coast, we found Teri Hall at her small home studio called Fire and Water in Bay Fortune. Hall makes stunning pieces of jewelry by melding silver with PEI beach glass. A former probation officer with the Department of Justice, she started making jewelry as a hobby but soon realized how passionate she was about pursuing this as a career so she made the switch.

Hall is careful to point out that she uses beach glass “as is”. That is, she doesn’t polish them or alter the bits of glass in any way. She also provides a service whereby a customer can bring in a piece of glass or pottery and she finds a way to make that piece sing—and last forever. In our travels we were pleasantly surprised to find both Jacques and Diane Gaudreau at their premises in Rustico. Called Gaudreau Fine Woodworking Artisans, it houses a magnificent woodworking studio and also showcases the work of over 20 Maritime potters in an exquisite gallery.

Jacques gladly gave us a demonstration on the finer points of making a large bowl. He uses everything from black walnut to bird’s eye maple, red oak and cherry to turn out designer hardwood items that are quite extraordinary. And there’s a bonus: several times a day, visitors can watch the staff plying their woodworking skills behind the safety of a large picture window. As a point of interest, the wood shavings are scooped up and sent to Leslie Kwiatkowski who operates PEI Smoke-Fired Pottery in Miscouche. Alas, we didn’t have time to visit Kwiatkowski, but her pieces at Gaudreau’s are breathtaking.

On another day we headed west and made all kinds of discoveries. Candy Gallant is a potter with a wicked sense of humour and limitless imagination. Her studio, Sweet & Sour Gargoyles, located on Route 12 just a bit beyond Miscouche is small but eye catching. This is where nature, fantasy and pottery harmonize to create one of-a-kind sculptures, guardians of stoneware and polymer clay. They are whimsical, endearing characters. Some are adorned with shells and others with baubles and stone. Well worth a visit!

Our next stop was again weird and wonderful, a place called the Back Road Folk Art, located in Lauretta. Can’t help but grin every time I think of it. The gallery and studio features the folk art of Kerras Jeffery. He’s quite a character and has filled his studio, barn and house with zany carvings, dressed-up antiques, and some very unusual furniture. It defies description save to say it borders on the silly and sublime.

Jeffery recently added an addition to his property: the Olde Times Garden House Museum. One section in the museum tells how skunks came to the island as tourists and never left—and I was so busy gawking at other displays that I somehow missed it. A good reason to go back, eh?

This is just a small sampling of the immense choices of craftspeople and artisans found on this gem of an island. There are over 100—so get ready to immerse yourself in talent and to meet some delightful people.


Recommended places to stay

Pioneer Farm, Route #176 in Glenwood is 150 acres of wonder. Panoramic woodland/seascape farm, powered up with solar and wind energy. Rent the vacation cottage and take part in farm life.

The Inn at Bay Fortune, the former home of Broadway Playwright Elmer Harris is full of old world charm and new world comforts.Guest rooms are furnished with antiques and local crafts. Exquisite dining.

The New Glasgow Inn is centrally located and adjacent to a fine golf course.Hostess Carol MacMillan makes memorable breakfasts and knows how to care for her guests. Bonus: Walking distance to PEI Preserves.

MacWilliams Cottages and B&B in Cape Traverse is only minutes away from the Confederation Bridge. Incredible ocean view and an entire beach practically to yourself. Great place to dig for clams!